22 february 2010
May i suggest -
When money is an issue, time is a tickin' and you're looking for a quick village escape, the FUSU trucks that pass through your village on a daily basis on their way to town are an ideal form of transportation.
To make the most of your trip I suggest:
- wear sturdy shoes that offer some form of grip. this will help as you hoist yourself up 8 feet into the back of the truck.
- please, have a seat. those bumps and bends in the road are likely to throw you off balance, so unless your feet are strongly planted in the truck bed, i wouldn't leave it up to the forces of gravity, nature, God, ect. Best just to park it.. on a sack of maize or snug between a couple of African people giggling at the muzungu sitting in the back of a truck.. careful now. Those previously mentioned bumps and bends in the road like to kiss your tailbone the whole ride to town - so unless you're packin' a bit of your own cushion to gentle those blows, better just stick to walking.
- that being said, be sure to wear some pre-stained or dark-colored pants.. the red earth caked on the truck is likely to frost you as well, so unless it's a look you wanna sport all day, best go with the darker, fool-proof colors.
May i suggest -
So, you've made it to town, but there's a team of dark clouds quickly making passes over the nearby mountains and once again, money's tight but you've got to make it to the Rwanda/Uganda border one way or another.. well, you don't see a swarm of young boys saddled up on their bikes, yelling "muzungu, muzungu" for no reason - this, the bike taxi, is a commonly used means of get-around here in Rwanda. Make sure you either pack your Kinyarwanda dictionary or bring your mental notes for numbers so that you can negotiate the price. They tell you 500, but you know it's meant to be 100RWF, so taking the white-factor into consideration, you settle on 200 and board the bike.
To make the most of your trip i suggest:
- wear a helmet - not just because it's Peace Corps rules, and you might suffer an Admin Sep as well as the physical consequences of an accident, but because well, at least mine is hot pink and as I'd like to think - very stylish. *Also - if people begin to recognize me as the muzungu with the hot pink helmet, at least they'll know that I'm the one coming and going on a regular basis, and one who isn't likely to put out when you hold out your hand and say "give me money" or "amafaranga".
- pack an umbrella in an easily accessible over-the-shoulder, messenger bag. This will help when those big ol' clouds cave under the pressure of their heavy tears and spill over onto not only you but your bike taxi driver who really ought to be able to see the road! (Why don't eyes come with built-in windshield whippers - I suppose that's what eyelids are for, but they really should be transparent, or offer tinted lenses). So, as it rains, it pours, and being the good American you are, be sure to hold up your umbrella far enough ahead to protect not only yourself, but also your driver from the wet.
- bring a cell phone, just in case. This will help to distract you from the 45 minutes that slowly pass by as the rain has picked up to the extent that neither driving nor riding a bicycle are possible. Find a little half-made mud hut on the side of the road and make yourself at home with your bike taxi driver and all of the children who have come to stare. Your cell phone will also humor others, such as General Alex Kigami who calls, laughing, asking "why didn't you tell me, I would've sent a vehicle for you?!" but refuse the offer as the bicycle makes the adventure that much more fun.
- put your language skills to use - not only to turn down marriage proposals from your driver for yourself and for your sister in America, but also to crack jokes about drinking or swimming in the brown water that is streaming along the side of the road.
- have the money - that is twice what you're really meant to be paying, set aside in your pocket, so that once you reach your destination, you can simply reach in, grab, give and go - leaving no time for your driver to argue, asking for more. Establish a price and stick with it.
Okay, so you're back to town - or at least the "town" that sits on the edge of the main road that branches off to your village nestled about a 30 min. ride back into the mountains... but you want to go to town - the real town, you know, the one that has a bank and a post and a market where you can make your weekly trip to buy food.
May I suggest -
Make your way to the small bus office where people are beginning to recognize your face - or at least your hot pink helmet. Pay the set 400RWF price (black, white, brown or purple - everyone gets charged the same), and take a seat in a plush, comfortable chair on the bus.
To make the most of your trip I suggest:
- grab a window seat, that gives you control over the temperature as well as over the potency of the stinky-dippered (? yes, no, maybe?) baby besides you. Downside? Keep the window closed until the bus is actually moving, this will limit the irritation caused by the children and old women who - spotting a muzungu - flock to the bus, extend their hand in a limp sort of manner and stand outside your window - sometimes even pounding on the bus - until the driver is ready to pull away.
- it may also be a good idea, depending on the length of your trip to sit either near the front or in the very back of the bus if possible, to avoid being climbed over as people pile in and get off along the way.
Alright, you've made it to Musanze, the town where most people are used to seeing white people - many tourist come and go here to make their trip to see the Volcano's precious gorilla families - rumor has it that the famous Dian Fossey spent her life right here, in my backyard, studying these endangered creatures - and you stop at the post only to find the box empty although you know there's a lot of love on it's way. You pay the 2000RWF ($4) to cover - literally cover - an envelope jammed packed with a dozen or so letters home and head off to the market. Spotting your favorite toilet paper vendor and the fact that he also has some laundry soap in his little booth, you give it a go. He seems trustworthy enough and over the next couple of years, who knows what kind of beautiful friendship may bloom out of these trips to the market.
Okay - the market.
To make the most out of your trip I suggest:
- bring a list - one that you've compiled after taking inventory of your kitchen and cleaning supplies. Chances are good if you don't write it down, you'll be easily overwhelmed by the stares, the calls and all of the unwanted attention you may or may not receive based on your skin color that even the most necessary of items (like toilet paper, or onions, ect) may be forgotten. so, a list and a pen to check things off as you go.
- bring your own bag (BYOB) and as I bought today - a plastic/mesh basket (this will help to protect against the squashing of your tomatoes and bananas - after all, they're tomatoes and bananas, not squash).
- carry a couple of small bills and/or coins in your front pockets. This is good because it's never a brilliant idea to go digging around in your wallet, exposing your bigger bills (if you've got them), to hungry, on-looking eyes. Sometimes when I find nothing but a 5,000RWF bill ($10) in my pocket, I hand it over, after agreeing to buy 100RWF worth of green peppers and the lady wanders off seeking change and I just cross my t's and dot my i's that she'll actually come back with 4,900 francs of change for me rather than taking the money for a run. So, small bills or 100RWF coins are a great idea.
To help you think in terms of getting the most for your money (muzungu prices, remember), today I bought:
- 2 kilos of potatoes for 200RWF (40cents)
- about a dozen or so carrots 200RWF
- 1 pineapple 200RWF
- 10 or so tomatoes 100RWF
- a nice-sized bunch of bananas 300RWF
- about 6 or so medium sized onions 200RWF
- 4 green peppers for 100RWF
My fresh fruits and veggies total = 1,300... $2.60 and these should get me through the week - in combination with lentils, couscous (very expensive!!), oatmeal, noodles, beans, ect ect.
As far as getting back to the village after this little tour around town, there's a public bus that makes the daily trip, leaving around 4:30 - but requiring that you arrive by, if not before 4:00 if you want any hope of getting a seat.. otherwise you're going to be standing in someone's lap, and as fun as that sounds, it's not easy work to surf even the smoothest of Rwandan roads in the bus. So rather than this option, we'll take the cushy smaller bus taxi back towards the border.
May I suggest -
Mention to the driver, or the man who collects tickets, that you don't actually want to go all the way to the border, but would rather prefer to get off at Kidaho. You may find yourself stuck in the back seat, right next to that stinky diapered (?) baby again, but just crack the window and rest assured that as the bus continues, eventually people will filter out, creating an isle way and you will be able to de-board the bus. Eventually.
The bus will let you off at Kidaho and instantly you will be surrounded again by those young fellas on bike taxis.
May I suggest -
Hire the one who calls you by your proper name, Umunezero, rather than muzungu. Also, it's always a good idea to let them know that you know that the price for the 1/2 hour (1/2 up-mountian) bikeride from the main road to your village is 300RWF (60 cents), not 4 or 500 - as they often try to pull a fast, but more so buhoro buhoro - one on you. Every now and again, depending on the responses you get when you ask your driver about his life, his family - or on how heavy your bag of fruits and goodies from the market may be... or how hot the sun and the afternoon heat are that day... ect.. you may decide to be more generous and slip him an extra 100. This is up to your personal discretion and pocketbook. Truthfully though, seeing some of those men sweat trying to bike me up a mountain, they earn it, ya know?
On the way, as you grip to the bottom of the drivers seat and avoid making eye contact with the steep cliff and sharp rocks at incredible depths below, you may or may not be passed by a vehicle carrying loads of farming tools in the back. This car may or may not stop a few feet ahead of you and then the passenger may or may not offer you a ride - and being that his car has 4 wheels rather than 2, and automatic transmission rather than the pumping of this poor fella's legs, you may or may not decide to take him up on the offer - paying your bike taxi man full price even though he got you hardly half way back.. he remembered your name and he had good intentions of getting you all the way home in one peace.
So now in the truck, with 4 wheels, instead of 2, you make polite conversation in Kinyarwanda, French, English, explaining that you are in fact from around here and not some lost tourist, and explain that the reason you know Kinyarwanda is because you were forced through 3 months of language training before being set free in this beautiful country to really learn - and as they approach your stop, you say "hano, hano", here is good, and you thank them very politely and finish the rest of your trip on foot - past the children outside who quickly run to greet you - more and more using Umunezero rather than muzungu, and you smile and you walk home.
truck
bike
bike
bus
bus
bike
truck
Big day.
look up quote from jimmy page
i wanna devote myself to this
librarys last
but so do the fingertips you can leave on someone's heart