Saturday, 20 March 2010

i have no answers, just lots of questions

Lauren Clapp & Jimmy - I'm warning you in advance, these are spell-checked excerpts from letters I'm dropping in the mail to you tomorrow. So, you can read on -or- you can wait til you get the real thing in my 5th graders spelling & chicken scratch. Up to you! (chances are pretty good you'll have forgotten it all by the time the letters actually make it to you anyway)



21 march 2010


letter to lauren clapp:


Man, when you're 21, find a bar in your college town that has an outdoor patio and serves some of the best known, strongest, $5 long islands in town and go there, on warm fall days when the leaves are changing colors or on spring days - right after the winter thaw, just as the leaves are coming to life. Go there, soak up the sun and great conversation with one of your closest friends and allow your eyes to see right through the superficialness of the fake blondes with their black spandex, Uggs & North Faces, walking by.


Holy shit, girl. I didn't always love college, but that, those afternoons on the patio of the Peanut Barrel with my closest friend who's now 1/2 a world away. That was college for me. That's what mattered. That's what made all the difference.



20 march 2010


letter to jimmy:


So every few weeks or so, my school director sends some students (usually girls from my English class) over to my house to sweep up my "yard" (I really miss grass!!) Well, today I wanted to sleep in but Samocho (pronounced: sam + 8 in Spanish), he's one of the village boys who brings me eggs every now and again, and i guess he thought it'd be a good idea to show up at an American's house at 7am on a Saturday (as you can see, some of these cultural differences are just unacceptable) So he woke me up, bringing me a dozen eggs.

A dozen!

I'm only one person and I have no fridge so you've gotta eat them pretty quick you know.. within a few days. Well, I gave him 1000 RWF and took 10/12 eggs, just cus I didn't want to take any less and have him have to run and get change. So, got my eggs and climbed back into bed. But, it probably sounds silly, but I'm becoming a pretty big fan of the

- coco powder

- peanut butter

- bananas

- porridge

mix I have for breakfast every morning. So I gave up on trying to fall back asleep, got outta bed and made my magic. of course, just as I sit down to eat, I get another knock at my gate. It's my girls, here to sweep my yard (that was a big ol'circle I just took you around, still holding on?). So they sweep and then I hear "teacher, teacher!!" and I look outside and see them throwing sticks on the ground at something behind this little flower bush.


"What is it?" they ask, panic in their voices. i go and have a look.


Well shit, what the heck is it?!


Part bird, part slug, part fish?


Gross, gives me goosebumps just thinking about it rolling around, tossing and turning all over the ground!


I decided it was some kind of monster caterpillar. Africa, gosh.


I poked it a bit with a stick and the girls freaked out. One of them told me that if it touched my leg, that my leg would get really big.

Poison!

So next thing I know, the girls are telling me that we need to build a fire to "died" it. I run in the house, get some matches, the girls pull dry leaves from my fence and all of the sudden, I've got like a Native American cremation ceremony going on before my eyes to kill this (shudders!) caterpillar.


The girls stood back and admired their fire and their fine work protecting their teacher.


"Teacher, what will you do when you see it again and we aren't here??" they ask.


"Stay in my house" I tell them.


Tuesday, 16 March 2010

I conditioned & combed out my hair tonight

17 march 2010


for the first time in probably months. Which might seem unhygienic to some, irrelevant to others. While I might be less particular about shaving my legs these days, rest assured I at least shampoo what's up top every 24 hours or so - which I know is a lot more often than some of you who even have the luxury of running water! Okay, so I conditioned & combed my hair tonight. Big deal. But it kinda is. it allowed me to see how long it's getting - nearly shoulder length now.


You know, in the past few years, every time I've gone through some kind of pretty-big-for-a-young-American-woman change (defining/questioning/testing morals, values & identity, breakups, new dreams, ect) I've either cut my hair, pierced something or heck - tattooed my bum. Just a week or so after arriving in Rwanda I had a friend chop it all off for me, cutting my hair shorter than it's probably been in, well, ages. In high school though - I had hair that could allow me to go topless without being indecent, but no one knew that. Why? I kept it all tied up. So concerned about straightening, flat irons and keeping fly-aways tucked away, I was too insecure, too worried about looking like everyone else. HA. I'm living in a village in Rwanda. The closest I can get to looking like anyone else here is wearing wax-print, their traditional dress, or I guess covering my body in charcoal - which does happen from time to time. I'm different, right? I turn red, my nose is peeling, my hair is blond, ect. I'm done worrying about straighteners and drama and I'm ready to embrace the tangles & mess. I figure that growing out my hair is just as much, if not more of a change, than cutting off it again and again.


So, we'll see how it goes.


Lately I've been starting things I haven't finished - which is pretty unlike me considering how much more value I give to follow through rather than good intentions. I've started two posts but didn't give them complete thought, never wrapped them up with a ribbon and a bow and sent them out at the www post.


I think a few aspects of them are worth sharing, so here you have it:

From 11 March 2010


Today must be a day of cliche proverbs because for one reason or another, I'm full of them:


If you want to have a garden, you must plant some seeds first.


Those who are patient enjoy the ripest fruit.


The context for the first.

It was a beautiful morning and not knowing if the sunshine would last, I decided to take a walk before class (which was inevitably canceled due to an insufficient amount of energy making the use of computers impossible) this morning. On my way, I noticed that there were many new greens sprouting up all over the mountainside where only a few weeks ago the villagers spent their days digging up and turning over the soil. I realized that I could have greens now too if only I had put the energy and effort into planting a garden.


This second one, about the ripest fruit..

This afternoon I just couldn't wait any longer.

Last weekend I bought a papaya at the market (250 RWF = 50 cents). That was DAYS ago and I was thirsty for some fruit so, knowing by touch that my papaya was still incredibly firm, I decided to go ahead and cut it open anyway with hopes that I'd find it soft and juicy inside.


wrong.


It was so hard and so not ready to be eaten, I felt defeated. Half the food in my house, if I don't get to it in time, spoils (I really try to prevent this from happening) and the other half is devoured by the rats (I try to keep this from happening too - can rats jump?? because one way or another, the get into everything - no matter how unreachable I think I've made it).


Goodness. I'm not a patient person.


--------------------------------

From 13 March 2010


The other day I met Eric,

a little boy who, when he's walking, waddles and swings his arms all about, but who, when he's running, holds them stiff, up at an angel behind him, as if this makes him more aerodynamic. The air rolls off his big ol'gumball belly and his elastic waist band hardly hugs his bottom, promising to let his pants fall off at any given moment. he doesn't even pause to tug them back into their proper place, but rather continues trudging along at full speed, momentarily covering his coin-slot only for gravity and the gusto of a 3 year old boy to expose it again seconds later.


--------------------------------


Today I left the house with my backpack. I was walking the route I've walked so many times before. All of the villagers see me and assume I'm on my way to Musangabo - which is true about 95% of the time. For one reason or another though, I had it in me to see something new - or to see the same old with a new perspective. Next thing I know, I find myself glancing up the road in front of and then back behind me, just to see if the coast was clear. People are really getting used to seeing me these days, so they don't follow or stare quite as much as they used to.


The coast was clear. Up I went.

I couldn't say for sure if the path I was taking was man-made and actually a "foot" path up the mountain or rather if it was just washed away Earth from all of the heavy rains. Either way, I wanted to be certain that on my little adventure off the usual track, people wouldn't witness the muzungu falling flat on her face if the stones and gravel beneath her feet gave way.


As I climbed, I could feel my heart beating in my ears. That's no exaggeration - but the view kept becoming more and more spectacular, luring me further and further towards the sky.


I eventually reached a small path through the eculuptius bushes to a little home. Deciding that wandering up was enough adventure for the day and that I didn't need to show up in some person's living-room, I stopped; caught my breath.


Realizing my fear of heights, and feeling like a kitten stuck up in a tree, i sat down on top of the world, under the shade of a couple eucalyptus bushes to read a book called "Half the Sky" - all the while taking in the other half stretched out over the lake before me.


Reading this book lately (as well as attending an event called "Operation Smile" in Kigali last weekend) is helping me to more clearly define some life goals of mine. The other day I made a list in my journal of what I want my future "career" to encompass:

- girl power

- literacy

- photography (the problem is I don't want to miss out on the hands-on-ness of bigger picture life by always being behind the camera)

- safe sex education/health

- underprivileged communities


Girl power might sound cliche, but I'm really thinking I want to dedicate my life to empowering young girls and women.


Being a big sister is the most important thing to me in this life - so why not pursue something I care so deeply about? I don't want to abandon the amazing family I have, I guess I just want to expand that concept of sisterhood - and I think in many ways I already have, being an RA, a camp counselor, ect. It's just really important to me. Something I truly treasure.


--------------------------------


Back to the future;

17 March 2010


Selfishness is something I've been thinking about a lot lately.


Are humans innately prone to be selfish?

Is it a survival tacit?


I don't understand, or maybe I do, but I'm uncomfortable with the answer.


I mean, I know I've always been one to swing by the Costco free sample tables more than my fair share of times - and it's not because I'll go hungry if I don't take advantage of the opportunity, but because, let's face it, who doesn't love free stuff?


The reason I bring it up is because every time I try and do something special for my students, like when we wrote the poems for International Women's Day - and 3 of my markers went missing, or last Friday when I had my students put together a scavenger hunt around school campus to practice using prepositions and identifying prepositional phrases and then had bonbons to share with all of the teams - well shoot. What was otherwise a really joyous occasion (and hopefully a good learning experience), we'd marched back to the classroom across the football field together, me leading the way with waves of students, arms wrapped around the shoulders of one another, cheering and singing "BINGO BINGO BINGO BINGOOOO BINGO BINGO!!" behind me - much like a team might celebrate a huge victory - while students in other classes peeked out their windows to see what the American was up to today - but as soon as I opened my bag of lollies, a shark-week-like feeding frenzy began. Students from other classes snook in among the chaos, my students would move from their spot on the shared desk benches to the other side of the room, sneaking their hands in, grabbing for seconds.. a bag of 100 lollies, which should have been TWO TIMES ENOUGH for my 44 English students - was suddenly nearly empty and there were still loads of kids grabbing. GRABBING. ah, I'm getting worked up just recalling it. Just yesterday one of my students asked me to define "monster" for him and what I should have said was "remember that one time I brought candy to class for you guys.. and then you all turned into little monsters". ohmygoodness. Eventually I got so fed up of being swarmed and grabbed at I put the few remaining candies away and left the room. Pacifique understood "they're being impolite". Yes, Pacifique, they are.


Not that I can truly blame my students, I'm embarrassed to say I'd likely act the same way! It's just really eye opening, you know. It's like the other day when I went for a walk and passed two men on the street. The stopped to greet me, big smiles, shaking my hand (which was offered with reluctance on my part considering H1N1 is supposedly going around the villages), and they made conversation in Kinyarwanda, asking how I was, where I was going, ect.. and then one of the men brings up money. I look at the other man, just to make sure I understood correctly and he confirmed my suspicions. "Amafaranga, 100" repeats the other man again. Disgusted, I withdrew my hand from his grasp and said "Really? Are you really going to do that??" I guess I should be able to just brush it off by now, but I've gotta tell ya, that put a big cloud in front of my sunshine and it hung around in my skies for the rest of the afternoon.


Money. Really?


The kids in my village hardly even ask me for money these days and when a few of the wise-guys primary school students do, I just turn, give them a look that says "You've crossed a line" and they go running in the opposite direction.


Here I go again, wanting to end this without actually finding the finish line.


It's St. Patrick's Day.

I wore my NOLA St Patty's Day parade '09 beads to class, gave all of my English students green smily face stickers and pointed out Ireland on the map to them, but honestly, more than anything, I just wanted to be home today. In East Lansing, with my sister, decked out in green & white, drinking buckets of green beer on Grand River, taking in the warmth of spring, acting like the American college student I used to be (I generally really dislike a lot of things about winter, but I absolutely love and miss the rebirth of spring). Much like on Halloween when I spent my day building a school for Umuganda, knowing my friends on the other side of the world were out in massive celebration and indulgences - it's really hard not to feel like I'm missing out. My sister has been 21 for 5+ months now and I haven't even had the opportunity to take her out for a proper drink. I don't think I'll get that chance until she's 23 and I'm 24. I miss her a lot. Every day. And on days like this, I really miss America too.


Happy St. Patty's Day. Enjoy a green brewskie or two for me, will ya?


ps i hate mosquitos.


Wednesday, 10 March 2010

I've been thinking a lot lately. better be careful or I could permanently damage my reproductive organs, right?


Too many thoughts, they're spilling over:


Eric

Proverbs

Culture

Climbing Mountains


From 11 March 2010


Today must be a day of cliche proverbs because for one reason or another, I'm full of them:


If you want to have a garden, you must plant some seeds first.


Those who are patient enjoy the ripest fruit.


Let me explain the context for the first.

It was a beautiful morning and not knowing if the sunshine would last, I decided to take a walk before class (which was inevitably canceled due to an insufficient amount of energy making the use of computers impossible) this morning. On my way, I noticed that there were many new greens sprouting up all over the mountainside where only a few weeks ago the villagers spent their days digging up and turning over the soil. I realized that I could have greens now too if only I had put the energy and effort into planting a garden.


This second one, about the ripest fruit..

This afternoon I just couldn't wait any longer.

Last weekend I bought a papaya at the market (250 RWF = 50 cents). That was DAYS ago and I was thirsty for some fruit so, knowing by touch that my papaya was still incredibly firm, I decided to go ahead and cut it open anyway with hopes that I'd find it soft and juicy inside.


wrong.


It was so hard and so not ready to be eaten, I felt defeated. Half the food in my house, if I don't get to it in time, it spoils (I really try to prevent this from happening) and the other half is devoured by the rats (I try to keep this from happening too - can rats jump?? because one way or another, the get into everything - no matter how unreachable I think I've made it).


Goodness. I'm not a patient person.


--------------------------------


The other day I met Eric,

a little boy who, when he's walking, waddles and swings his arms all about, but who, when he's running, holds them stiff u at an angel behind him, as if this makes him more aerodynamic, as the air rolls off his big ol'gumball belly, his elastic waist band hardly hugs his bottom, promising to fall of at any given moment. he doesn't even pause to tug them back into their proper place, but rather continues trudging along at full speed, momentarily covering his coin-slot only for gravity and the gusto of a 3 year old boy to expose it again seconds later.


Today I left the house with my backpack. I was walking the route I've walked so many times before. All of the villagers see me and assume I'm on my way to Musangabo - which is true about 95% of the time. For one reason or another though, I had it in me to see something new - or to see the same old with a new perspective. Next thing I know, I find myself glancing up the road in front of and then back behind me, just to see if the coast was clear. People are really getting used to seeing me these days, so they don't follow or stare quite as much as they used to.


The coast was clear. Up I went.

I couldn't say for sure if the path I was taking was man-made and actually a "foot" path up the mountain or rather if it was just washed away Earth from all of the heavy rains. Either way, I wanted to be certain that on my little adventure off the usual track, that people wouldn't witness the muzungu fall flat on her face if the stones and gravel beneath her feet gave way.


As I climbed, I could feel my heart beating in my ears. That's no exaggeration.


thump thump thump.


But the view kept becoming more and more spectacular, luring me further and further towards the sky.


I felt like I could reach up and touch the blue.


I eventually reached a small path through the eculuptius bushes to a little home. Deciding that wandering up was enough adventure for the day and that I didn't need to show up in some person's living-room, so I stopped, caught my breath.


Realizing my fear of heights, and feeling like a kitten stuck up in a tree, i sat down on top of the world, under the shade of a couple eucalyptus bushes to read a book called "Half the Sky" - all the while taking in the other half stretched out over the lake before me.


Reading this book lately (as well as attending an event called "Operation Smile" in Kigali last weekend) is helping me to more clearly define some life goals of mine. The other day I made a list in my journal of what I want my future "career" to encompass:

- girl power

- literacy

- photography

- safe sex education/health

- underprivileged communities


Girl power might sound cliche, but I'm really thinking I want to dedicate my life to empowering young girls and women.


Being a big sister is the most important thing to me in this life - so why not pursue something I care so deeply about? I don't want to abandon the amazing family I have, I guess I just want to expand that concept of sisterhood - and I think in many ways I already have, being an RA, a camp counselor, ect. It's just really important to me. Something I truly treasure.


clothes on the line outside a family's home look like prayer flags out to dry across the yard.


i went to the top of the world & back before lunch today.


Selfishness


i took a faithful leap

& packed up all my things and all my love

& gave it to myself

Sunday, 7 March 2010

don't steal my colors

8 march 2010


I've officially been in Rwanda for 5 months today.


Today also marks the 100th Anniversary of International Women's Day - although I can almost guarantee it's a fairly new celebration in these parts of the world.


Being that I have a bit of experience working with girls, or young women - as we'd call them in America, I felt as though it was really important for me to put together an activity to share with the girls today - both to weld a bond between us as women but also to try and inspire them, or at least let them know that I think they're special.


I brainstormed for a bit last night, really wanting to do an activity around India Arie's lyrics to the song "Video":

Sometimes I shave my legs and sometimes I don't

Sometimes I comb my hair and sometimes I won't

Depend on how the wind blows I might even paint my toes

It really just depends on whatever feels good in my soul


I'm not the average girl from your video

and I ain't built like a supermodel

But, I learned to love myself unconditionally

Because I am a queen

I'm not the average girl from your video

My worth is not determined by the price of my clothes

No matter what I'm wearing I will always be the india arie


Of course this proved to be a challenge as it would require finding a room to host the afternoon event - a room that had both an outlet and electricity - and then there's also the fact that the school doesn't own a cd player - so we would have to move one of the dinosaur computers from the lab to this room big enough to hold 100 girls (I wish that I didn't feel the need to keep my laptop such a secret from everyone other than my close neighbor friends and a couple of the other teachers - I just don't want word to get around the village that muzungu has a laptop - don't need to give people anymore reasons to want to break into my house while i'm away on weekends/holidays), ect ect.


So - I figured that pulling together the song and lyrics was going to be too difficult - because even if I did have a way to play the music for the girls, I had no way of projecting the lyrics up on the board (it's a long song, I didn't want to write them all out by hand) and there's no copier or printer at school - so any mass production of the text is out of the question. With all of this in mind, I decided I'd better not rely on technology as the highlight of our Women's Day celebration.


Having received a packet of beautiful scrap-booking paper (thankyoucathy!!) I thought maybe we could find a good way to put it to use. I spent a long time last night trying to get my poor internet connection to load different patterns and instructions for origami flowers - and then I spent quite a bit more time cutting page after page of scrap-booking paper into 6"x6" squares until I finally had 120+ squares and a basic idea of what we could do.


This afternoon, we met in the hot room that serves as the school's church. We were able to bring in a computer from the lab - finding that the one song I really wanted to share with the girls wasn't playable for one reason or another, I was glad I'd come up with a Plan B. Once things were settled down a bit, I passed out halves of index cards I'd cut this morning and gave the girls instructions to write one question they had about being a girl or a woman - giving topic ideas such as health/body image, relationships, sex, HIV/AIDS, ect and to then place their card in the basket I had at the front of the room. I told them to do this anonymously, without writing their names on the cards, as to try and make them feel more comfortable about asking questions that - chances are pretty good - they really have no way of finding answers to (a lack of resources such as books, tv, internet as well as a lack of informed, trusted adults). I told them that I likely wouldn't have a response for all of their questions, but I was hopeful that I could at least offer maybe a bit of guidance, or find a way to help them find the answers themselves.


After all of the cards were collected, we wrote our poems.


The assignment, as I gave the girls today was to write a poem (in any language they wished). Their poem had to include their name, at least 1 thing they loved about themselves as a person, at least one thing they loved about their body(-ies?) and at least one goal they have for this life.


This is my "poem" I shared with the girls as an example:


Umunezero


I love my laugh, my honesty and my openness.


I think my freckles are beautiful.


I want to be a part of something BIG.

I want to change someone's world.


The idea was to have the girls write their poems and then later copy them onto their origami flowers (I decided to go with the "simple sunflower" - which doesn't actually resemble a flower much, but I assumed that we would have enough language and cultural obstacles to overcome today without needing to throw complicated folding instructions into the mix). After I gave instructions, I had a couple of students translate them into Kinyarwanda just to make sure that everyone understood at least the basic gist of the project.


I had a lot of success with a similar activity during what we called "embers" at camp this past summer - where I'd have girls write 3 things they loved about their bodies as well as 3 things they loved about themselves as people. Afterwards, we'd have a discussion where girls had the opportunity to share their bullet points as well as how they felt about the experience. Often times, many of the girls found that writing 3 things they loved about themselves as a person was much more difficult than identifying 3 things they liked most about their physical appearance. One reason behind this, we suggested, was that being constantly bombarded by the media in America (and most other parts of the world), we could tell you without a second's thought exactly what we both hate and find acceptable about our physique. The deeper stuff - like what about us makes us a good person, or what allows us to feel inner peace (if ever), is so often glanced over (people don't sell you fad diets or makeup - to cover your "blemishes" - by making you reflect on your heart and soul), often taking much more time to contemplate. Well, this was the idea I had going into today, but I also knew that without MTV - or just a plain old TV, or Cosmo available in the villages of Rwanda, that I would have to spin the assignment to fit the cultural - lack of media - context, as well as try to simplify it a bit to take into consideration the fact that most of these students are just beginning to learn English and may not have the appropriate vocabulary to express their thoughts.


While the girls were writing their rough draft poems, and then later after we'd made our origami flowers and they were transcribing their poems onto the fancy paper - with the markers I'd passed out (I got an incredible 50 pack of markers from Catalin and Matheiu, 2 awesome study abroad friends - who are both on adventure of their own at this very moment - I've got some really cool friends), I spent some time looking through the questions the girls had written on their index cards.


I tried to divide the questions into a few different groups, compiling those that were similar to see try and get a general feel for things going on in these girls' heads and hearts.


While some questions asked about Women's Day, "what is the importance of women?", or "why do we have periods?", I found a vast majority of the questions asked concerned one of two topics:

- why are girls/women inferior to men?

and

- violence (both physical and sexual abuse)


Woah.

Where do you even begin?


As an RA, we had loads of resources to provide our residents with and dozens of organizations on/around campus to help women who find themselves in such situations. But here, in the villages of Rwanda, are there really laws that give girls rights to seek help if/when they are beaten by their parents or assaulted by boys? Is there really somewhere/someone they can turn to? And where can I go to get answers to these questions because Lord knows I really just don't know. And who can I talk to about these things? Where can I find information for these girls? And even if there are organizations to help women in need, are they based in Kigali? Are they really capable of reaching out to girls outside the city, in villages?


At a loss for answers, the girls finished up their poems and I put the questions back in the basket, needing to buy time until I can figure out where to start.


I asked the girls to give back all of the markers/colored pencils/stamps they'd been using to create their finished origami poems. Trying to get those markers back was like pulling teeth and when i found that my grand total after they'd "all" been passed back was 44 instead of 50, my heart sank. Are they really going to play this game? I asked myself. I announced that I was missing 6 markers and reluctantly 3 more were handed back, but that still left 3 nowhere to be seen.


Okay, I know that losing 3 markers isn't really a big deal, what put me on the verge of tears was the principle of the matter.


I generally try to be as generous as I can be - without giving away money and/or the clothes on my back - with these students. I love to share, I love to make them feel like I really care about them (because i do!), I love to offer them the opportunity to use resources they don't typically have access to - but then for someone or a few some-ones to go ahead and keep my markers, stealing, after I'd just expressed to them how important honesty is to me as a person, as a whole, it really bothered me. I felt incredibly disappointed. And then a whole ruckus stirred up as older students took the lead trying to get the girls to return the markers - but no one budged and I was just left standing at the front of the room looking totally defeated. I felt like all of the opportunity for good was crushed by the uncomfortable, chaos of the situation and eventually I said "sit down", twice, quietly.


Quickly the room was hushed and I stood in front of the girls. Maybe I'm just overly emotional, but it took every part of my might to keep tears from spilling out of my eyes as I expressed my disappointment and said that I didn't care who took the markers, but just that I wanted them back and that if this was how it was going to be, that I will think twice about sharing with them in the future.


I wanted to overcome the sense of greed that lingered in the room, so I asked if any girls wanted to share their poems with the group. Several raised their hands.


As it turned out, many poems read something like this:


My name is Claudine.


I love to pray my God. I love my family and to study. (not exactly what I meant by "what do you love about yourself?" but I still felt that they were relevant details to the girls' lives so I didn't correct them)


I love my breast. I love my head. I love my teeth. (I did mention during my intro that I think I've got a great butt - so I'm wondering if girls really love their always-hidden-beneith-a-uniform-shirt cleavage, or what exactly they meant by that. Although one girl did say her favorite body part was her heart, I feel like maybe there are different body image ideals and issues that girls here face compared to all of the tummy-haters in America).


I want to be a doctor (or nurse, or pilot, or wife..).


Overall, I feel as though many of the girls took great pride in their poems and after class I snapped a few pictures of the girls gathered in the courtyard, all of them holding up their origami flowers with smiles stretched across their faces. So I guess that's good.


Being that our gathering had already lasted a couple of hours and that I didn't feel prepared to spend a couple more exploring some of the harsh realities of womanhood, at the end, I didn't much feel like diving into the question bowl, so I proposed the idea of starting a girl's club. The majority of hands went up in favor, and I said I would talk to the director about it and that if we had a girl's club, I thought it would be a really great opportunity to try and tackle some of the questions/issues faced by these girls. So - hopefully that will pan-out in the near future.


Despite the smiles in the pictures, I still felt really down about the missing markers and on my way home from the dorm area, I passed Adeline, my 9 year old friend. I asked her if she wanted to go for a walk. She did. I felt almost guilty for asking her to go for a walk with me when I was in such a bad mood, but being with her, practicing English and Kinyarwanda, yelling "ECHO" at the top of our lungs into the curves of the mountain sides - to find them not only echoed back by the nature of sound waves, but also by children camouflaged somewhere in the crops and bush as well, laying in the tall grasses of Musangabo as the sun set behind Muhaboula and laughing at the little boys showing off their karate moves in the distance - quickly took my mind and my heart off of the blues of greed and focused them more on the blues of the sky, highlighting my 4 favorite trees that stand alone, together, in the background.


Buhoro, Buhoro.

One step at a tiime.


8 march 2010



I've officially been in Rwanda for 5 months today.

Today also marks the 100th Anniversary of International Women's Day - although I can almost guarantee it's a fairly new celebration in these parts of the world.

Being that I have a bit of experience working with girls, or young women - as we'd call them in America, I felt as though it was really important for me to put together an activity to share with the girls today - both to weld a bond between us as women but also to try and inspire them, or at least let them know that I think they're special.

I brainstormed for a bit last night, really wanting to do an activity around India Arie's lyrics to the song "Video":
Sometimes I shave my legs and sometimes I don't
Sometimes I comb my hair and sometimes I won't
Depend on how the wind blows I might even paint my toes
It really just depends on whatever feels good in my soul

I'm not the average girl from your video
and I ain't built like a supermodel
But, I learned to love myself unconditionally
Because I am a queen
I'm not the average girl from your video
My worth is not determined by the price of my clothes
No matter what I'm wearing I will always be the india arie

Of course this proved to be a challenge as it would require finding a room to host the afternoon event - a room that had both an outlet and electricity - and then there's also the fact that the school doesn't own a cd player - so we would have to move one of the dinosaur computers from the lab to this room big enough to hold 100 girls (I wish that I didn't feel the need to keep my laptop such a secret from everyone other than my close neighbor friends and a couple of the other teachers - I just don't want word to get around the village that muzungu has a laptop - don't need to give people anymore reasons to want to break into my house while i'm away on weekends/holidays), ect ect.

So - I figured that pulling together the song and lyrics was going to be too difficult - because even if I did have a way to play the music for the girls, I had no way of projecting the lyrics up on the board (it's a long song, I didn't want to write them all out by hand) and there's no copier or printer at school - so any mass production of the text is out of the question. With all of this in mind, I decided I'd better not rely on technology as the highlight of our Women's Day celebration.

Having received a packet of beautiful scrap-booking paper (thankyoucathy!!) I thought maybe we could find a good way to put it to use. I spent a long time last night trying to get my poor internet connection to load different patterns and instructions for origami flowers - and then I spent quite a bit more time cutting page after page of scrap-booking paper into 6"x6" squares until I finally had 120+ squares and a basic idea of what we could do.

This afternoon, we met in the hot room that serves as the school's church. We were able to bring in a computer from the lab - finding that the one song I really wanted to share with the girls wasn't playable for one reason or another, I was glad I'd come up with a Plan B. Once things were settled down a bit, I passed out halves of index cards I'd cut this morning and gave the girls instructions to write one question they had about being a girl or a woman - giving topic ideas such as health/body image, relationships, sex, HIV/AIDS, ect and to then place their card in the basket I had at the front of the room. I told them to do this anonymously, without writing their names on the cards, as to try and make them feel more comfortable about asking questions that - chances are pretty good - they really have no way of finding answers to (a lack of resources such as books, tv, internet as well as a lack of informed, trusted adults). I told them that I likely wouldn't have a response for all of their questions, but I was hopeful that I could at least offer maybe a bit of guidance, or find a way to help them find the answers themselves.

After all of the cards were collected, we wrote our poems.

The assignment, as I gave the girls today was to write a poem (in any language they wished). Their poem had to include their name, at least 1 thing they loved about themselves as a person, at least one thing they loved about their body(-ies?) and at least one goal they have for this life.

This is my "poem" I shared with the girls as an example:

Umunezero

I love my laugh, my honesty and my openness.

I think my freckles are beautiful.

I want to be a part of something BIG.
I want to change someone's world.

The idea was to have the girls write their poems and then later copy them onto their origami flowers (I decided to go with the "simple sunflower" - which doesn't actually resemble a flower much, but I assumed that we would have enough language and cultural obstacles to overcome today without needing to throw complicated folding instructions into the mix). After I gave instructions, I had a couple of students translate them into Kinyarwanda just to make sure that everyone understood at least the basic gist of the project.

I had a lot of success with a similar activity during what we called "embers" at camp this past summer - where I'd have girls write 3 things they loved about their bodies as well as 3 things they loved about themselves as people. Afterwards, we'd have a discussion where girls had the opportunity to share their bullet points as well as how they felt about the experience. Often times, many of the girls found that writing 3 things they loved about themselves as a person was much more difficult than identifying 3 things they liked most about their physical appearance. One reason behind this, we suggested, was that being constantly bombarded by the media in America (and most other parts of the world), we could tell you without a second's thought exactly what we both hate and find acceptable about our physique. The deeper stuff - like what about us makes us a good person, or what allows us to feel inner peace (if ever), is so often glanced over (people don't sell you fad diets or makeup - to cover your "blemishes" - by making you reflect on your heart and soul), often taking much more time to contemplate. Well, this was the idea I had going into today, but I also knew that without MTV - or just a plain old TV, or Cosmo available in the villages of Rwanda, that I would have to spin the assignment to fit the cultural - lack of media - context, as well as try to simplify it a bit to take into consideration the fact that most of these students are just beginning to learn English and may not have the appropriate vocabulary to express their thoughts.

While the girls were writing their rough draft poems, and then later after we'd made our origami flowers and they were transcribing their poems onto the fancy paper - with the markers I'd passed out (I got an incredible 50 pack of markers from Catalin and Matheiu, 2 awesome study abroad friends - who are both on adventure of their own at this very moment - I've got some really cool friends), I spent some time looking through the questions the girls had written on their index cards.

I tried to divide the questions into a few different groups, compiling those that were similar to see try and get a general feel for things going on in these girls' heads and hearts.

While some questions asked about Women's Day, "what is the importance of women?", or "why do we have periods?", I found a vast majority of the questions asked concerned one of two topics:
- why are girls/women inferior to men?
and
- violence (both physical and sexual abuse)

Woah.
Where do you even begin?

As an RA, we had loads of resources to provide our residents with and dozens of organizations on/around campus to help women who find themselves in such situations. But here, in the villages of Rwanda, are there really laws that give girls rights to seek help if/when they are beaten by their parents or assaulted by boys? Is there really somewhere/someone they can turn to? And where can I go to get answers to these questions because Lord knows I really just don't know. And who can I talk to about these things? Where can I find information for these girls? And even if there are organizations to help women in need, are they based in Kigali? Are they really capable of reaching out to girls outside the city, in villages?

At a loss for answers, the girls finished up their poems and I put the questions back in the basket, needing to buy time until I can figure out where to start.

I asked the girls to give back all of the markers/colored pencils/stamps they'd been using to create their finished origami poems. Trying to get those markers back was like pulling teeth and when i found that my grand total after they'd "all" been passed back was 44 instead of 50, my heart sank. Are they really going to play this game? I asked myself. I announced that I was missing 6 markers and reluctantly 3 more were handed back, but that still left 3 nowhere to be seen.

Okay, I know that losing 3 markers isn't really a big deal, what put me on the verge of tears was the principle of the matter.

I generally try to be as generous as I can be - without giving away money and/or the clothes on my back - with these students. I love to share, I love to make them feel like I really care about them (because i do!), I love to offer them the opportunity to use resources they don't typically have access to - but then for someone or a few some-ones to go ahead and keep my markers, stealing, after I'd just expressed to them how important honesty is to me as a person, as a whole, it really bothered me. I felt incredibly disappointed. And then a whole ruckus stirred up as older students took the lead trying to get the girls to return the markers - but no one budged and I was just left standing at the front of the room looking totally defeated. I felt like all of the opportunity for good was crushed by the uncomfortable, chaos of the situation and eventually I said "sit down", twice, quietly.

Quickly the room was hushed and I stood in front of the girls. Maybe I'm just overly emotional, but it took every part of my might to keep tears from spilling out of my eyes as I expressed my disappointment and said that I didn't care who took the markers, but just that I wanted them back and that if this was how it was going to be, that I will think twice about sharing with them in the future.

I wanted to overcome the sense of greed that lingered in the room, so I asked if any girls wanted to share their poems with the group. Several raised their hands.

As it turned out, many poems read something like this:

My name is Claudine.

I love to pray my God. I love my family and to study. (not exactly what I meant by "what do you love about yourself?" but I still felt that they were relevant details to the girls' lives so I didn't correct them)

I love my breast. I love my head. I love my teeth. (I did mention during my intro that I think I've got a great butt - so I'm wondering if girls really love their always-hidden-beneith-a-uniform-shirt cleavage, or what exactly they meant by that. Although one girl did say her favorite body part was her heart, I feel like maybe there are different body image ideals and issues that girls here face compared to all of the tummy-haters in America).

I want to be a doctor (or nurse, or pilot, or wife..).

Overall, I feel as though many of the girls took great pride in their poems and after class I snapped a few pictures of the girls gathered in the courtyard, all of them holding up their origami flowers with smiles stretched across their faces. So I guess that's good.

Being that our gathering had already lasted a couple of hours and that I didn't feel prepared to spend a couple more exploring some of the harsh realities of womanhood, at the end, I didn't much feel like diving into the question bowl, so I proposed the idea of starting a girl's club. The majority of hands went up in favor, and I said I would talk to the director about it and that if we had a girl's club, I thought it would be a really great opportunity to try and tackle some of the questions/issues faced by these girls. So - hopefully that will pan-out in the near future.

Despite the smiles in the pictures, I still felt really down about the missing markers and on my way home from the dorm area, I passed Adeline, my 9 year old friend. I asked her if she wanted to go for a walk. She did. I felt almost guilty for asking her to go for a walk with me when I was in such a bad mood, but being with her, practicing English and Kinyarwanda, yelling "ECHO" at the top of our lungs into the curves of the mountain sides - to find them not only echoed back by the nature of sound waves, but also by children camouflaged somewhere in the crops and bush as well, laying in the tall grasses of Musangabo as the sun set behind Muhaboula and laughing at the little boys showing off their karate moves in the distance - quickly took my mind and my heart off of the blues of greed and focused them more on the blues of the sky, highlighting my 4 favorite trees that stand alone, together, in the background.

Buhoro, Buhoro.
One step at a tiime.

Wednesday, 3 March 2010

i tried to count my blessings, but i ran outta fingers & toes

4 march 2010


the landscape is changing all around me, as the seasons flux between wet and dry, women, young and old as well as men, spend strings of entire days on end out cultivating on the mountain sides - preparing the Earth to show off her strength and magic as the production of future crops are only months away. Seeing ground that was once green with beans now brown with seeds, and the ongoing changing patterns of the quilted hills, I have to ask myself what kind of changes are going on in the landscape of myself.


there are obvious things.

it amazes me how in such a short period of time, I can go from being too intimidated to leave my house due to the "muzungu, muzungu"s that always flooded my ears. now though, I feel more or less comfortable to walk alone to my favorite sot, Musangabo, and rather than adults and children gawking with their "musungus", they now greet me as Umunezero and ask where I'm going, where I'm coming from.. their hands too busy with farming tools to reach out for money.. which thankfully is a much less frequent occurrence these days anyway.


I also don't feel so trapped within the confines of my school grounds. I now make trips to and from town to buy fresh fruits and vegetables at the market and to check the mail at the post on a weekly basis. It's really nice being able to catch a bike taxi and then the bus to town without relying on someone else to arrange the transportation for me. Sometimes I actually feel guilty for this new sense of independence, thinking that maybe my school director would be offended by my lack of need on his part, but at the same time, I'm sure he's also relieved that his muzungu is figuring things out for herself, he has a family to feed (not that he actually ever does any of the cooking) and a school to run, so his hands are full without worrying about how I'm coming along.


Now that I'm also figuring out how to cook as well, and have a gas stove, making it less of a chore to prepare meals that require only a bit of boiling, my tummy that was wasting away is now starting to fill out again. Not sure if this is a good thing, Commander Charles told me last time he saw me, "Oh, you're getting big!".. I explained to him that that's not necessarily a good thing in my culture. Whereas here it means simply that I look healthy, at home, roundness comes with a whole slew of other connotations... but then I got tired of trying to defend an aspect of my culture that I don't personally stand for or believe in. So I give up. If I'm getting big, I'm getting big and I'm going to try to accept that and love myself regardless.


Another change is my relationships. Rather than being quite as focused on what's going on with my Peace Corps, American friends, I have found myself putting more time and energy into the bonds that are forming with Rwandans. There's Jean Jacques - who's in America for a work/holiday at the moment, Adeline - I unfortunately have less time to spend with her these days being that school has started and I now spend most of my nights either teaching or preparing lessons, but there's her brothers as well, a couple of which I find I keep in contact with on a fairly regular basis. they always ask me to pass on their regards to Papa Shrek and Adeline and I feel kind of silly being a means of communication between sons and father, but at the same time, I'm glad for the opportunity and for the fact that they care to message me. Part of one of my most recent emails from a brother was:

how is life going? i always ask you this because i think it is somehow difficult to an American people to live in a country like kagogo where u can not access to internet, no electricity,....

but you know what? you are one of people who surprised me! the way you got familiar with our environment, the way you are kind, .....that's really good, i wish you to keep on like that because you will help us to leave some african cultures and to live like Americans!

Although I don't wan to go changing their culture, it's just really nice to have this kind of contact with someone my own age.


I'm really falling for my students as well. Joking, teasing. I borrowed a friend's idea of having them make name tags (just index cards with their names on them) to raise when they want to be called on in class - and I'm finding I'm quickly picking up more and more not just on their names but on their personalities as well.


i think along the same lines of comfort, just walking into my house could tell you that it's starting to feel more and more like a home. I have piles of what I like to call "comfortable clutter" all over the place - a reflection of actually living here, a sign of a life that's keeping me busy, lessons, students, responsibilities, making chores fall by the wayside.. which is a type of lifestyle that I would prefer rather than having nothing other than housework to do.


Shoot, despite the chewed up undies mishap last week or so, even my relationship with my rat neighbors is improving. I hardly scream anymore when I see them!


so all of these things are visible to the eye.. changes that affect my social life, my daily routine, ect. what I'm most curious about is what the landscape of my heart looks like right about now. Or that of my perspective, my take on life and the world. These things - I mean, I've been living in Africa for 5 months now, 2 of those, all on my own. Some changes have to be taking place, I just can't even begin to imagine what they might be or how they might manifest themselves in my future, in my goals, ideals, values, decisions.


I've seen people deeply moved by a one or three month long trip to Africa - as I said, it's been 5 so far, and God willing, there will be many more to come, I think these things though, I don't think I'll understand all of the transformations taking place inside of me until I leave this context, this new sense of "norms" - such as life without running water, with only a hole in the ground to call a toilet, where washing my laundry takes all afternoon, where you greet every single person that you meet by shaking their hand, no matter how dirt stained it may be (and that says a lot for a girl who was quite the germ-a-phobe in America).. where your food choices are limited to some sort of combination of the same 5 veggies every single meal, where phone calls are charged by the second, making real conversations a thing of American connivence, where the weather really affects nearly every aspect of your daily life, and on and on.


My dear friend Stephanie, from KP, mentioned in a letter that arrived around the 3.5 or 4 month mark, that after being here for that long, I will have adjusted to all of these things - the difficulties and challenges of just living without the luxuries we so often take for granted in the States - and having accomplished that, I will be able to build upon more important things - such as my goals and relationships, not just with friends, family and local villagers, but also the one I have with myself.


She was absolutely right. It don't hesitate to squat to use the toilet, and I think I'm pretty clever how I've been taking advantage of all the rain to collect water in my buckets, making it so that i haven't had to have a boy fetch water for me in weeks.. so now that I've jumped those hurdles, the other things, I'm finally getting to the good stuff.


It's funny because I'm a pretty outgoing, social person - and many people here assume that I'm lonely, in that sometimes, after classes and whatnot, I tend to keep to myself. Truth be told, I really enjoy this alone time with me. With my thoughts, with my feelings. Sometimes it's good to just sit and think and let the moment wash over me. I know that the second I step off a plane in America again, the fact that I'd just spent however long living in Africa as a Peace Corps Volunteer will seem like a dream. I wonder what life will be like when at 24 years old, I will have experienced such a deep, world rocking trip - last night I found myself unable to sleep, laying in bed wondering what the next adventure will be, and how could it ever top the opportunity I have at hand right now? So many dreams, what will I do first? But then the thought of what society tells me I should want - a husband, a good job, a family, a big, flat-screen tv, tickets to the latest Hollywood production, ect. slaps me in my face. what If I end up 30 years old without any of those things? What If I'm 30 years old and I've spent all those years between now and then living in all different parts of the world, meeting and celebrating different cultures with different people - and what if I don't have a Masters or a big savings account to show for all of my time, but just pre-mature laugh lines forming around my eyes and some of the most colorful pictures in my photo albums that you've ever seen.


Well who's to say that these things aren't just as, if not more fulfilling than an annual salary. I don't want to give up my dreams just because someone else is trying to program them for me (not that there's anything wrong with wanting these "American dreams", I just don't think there's anything wrong with wanting my own either). Maybe I seem naive and idealistic, but I guess that's the person I am right now and that's the person I'm learning to love.


I think I'll go make lunch now. Cheers.


Monday, 1 March 2010

it's not always sunshine & rainbows, but sometimes.

2 march 2010


walking back to my house [after sitting through BOTH dinner shifts, hearing one of my wise-guy students call me muzungu as he leaves the cafeteria - I glare and give him the bird, he smiles and returns a thumbs up, being showered with a slew of "bon appetite", "appetite", "enjoy your meal" and the kinyarwanda form for the same] bouts of laughter ring through the campus, echoing off of the dormitory walls and rising up into the night sky - tonight, absolutely sparkled with the glow of stars of all sizes.


this laughter, as I make my way home, is the same high pitch, deep in the belly type, mocking my uncontrollable, tummy rumbling giggles - is so familiar.. not only because of its history of escaping my lips, my eyes, my smiles, but because it is the exact same form of teasing that those who have come to know (and hopefully love me) have used against, or maybe more so, with me - all over the world. at camp we made a film of Johnathan imitating my laugh, in high school, the swim girls would stir up the noise (Shea, Ashley..!) just to get a rise out of me - and me, I can't help but to respond with the original goofiness.


my eyes nearly filled with tears.


my students,

my laugh.

they hear it.

they mock it.


that has to be a good sign.


laughter knows no language barrier,

it overcomes all.

it makes me so genuinely happy!


And I'm not kidding, what I said about sunshine and rainbows.


After what seemed like weeks of heavy, non-stop rain, my spirits were drowning and my morale was low, but today - just a I sat down to wash my 2+ weeks worth of laundry by hand, not only do the clouds give way, but the sun, in a sky full of blue, is completely encircled in waves of color. I've never seen anything like it before. A rainbow, with a fire-burning center, on a day when rain is the farthest thing from Mother Nature's mind. How can that be?


So many mysteries.

Some things, like my endless rainbow, don't need to be explained.

They ought to be taken for what they are - or what they could be,

a reminder to appreciate the magic of the simplest, purest, most beautiful, natural things in life - whether they be greens beginning to sprout after a never-ending, frozen winter or the kind heart beating within your friend. don't let these slip through your fingers.


catch them for a moment. let them seep into your soul.